Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Book by William Finnegan
By William FinneganWINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. Published By Orbit Books on 2016-05
Book details
- Paperback
- 512 pages
- English
- 1472151410
- 9781472151414
About William Finnegan
william finnegan is a staff writer at the new yorker. he has won several awards for his journalism and the 2016 pulitzer prize for biography or autobiograp Read More about William Finnegan
More Books By William Finnegan
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