Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Book by William Finnegan
By William FinneganWINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. Published By Orbit Books on 2016-05
Book details
- Paperback
- 512 pages
- English
- 1472151410
- 9781472151414
About William Finnegan
william finnegan is a staff writer at the new yorker. he has won several awards for his journalism and the 2016 pulitzer prize for biography or autobiograp Read More about William Finnegan
More Books By William Finnegan
People who bought this also bought
Toxicology for the Next Millennium (Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences)
Used Book
Signs of Life: The Five Universal Shapes and How to Use Them by Angeles Arrien
Used Book
The Rules Of Work: The Unspoken Truth About Getting Ahead In Business book by Richard Templar
New Book
International Airport: The Story of Kennedy Airport and U.S. Commercial Aviation book by George Scullin
Used Book
God's Big Idea : Reclaiming God's Original Purpose for Your Life by Myles Munroe
New Book
The Culture Code: The Secrets of Highly Successful Groups book by Daniel Coyle
New Book
No Picnic on Mount Kenya: A Daring Escape, A Perilous Climb book by Felice Benuzzi
New Book
My Story: 50 Memories from 50 Years of Service Book by Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum
Used Book
She Has Her Mother's Laugh: The Story of Heredity, Its Past Present and Future book by Carl Zimmer
New Book
The New McDougall Cookbook: 300 Delicious Low-Fat, Plant-Based Recipes book by Mary McDougall
Used Book
Dear Bess: The Letters from Harry to Bess Truman, 1910-1959 (Volume 1)
Used Book
Called: Hello, My Name Is Mrs. Jefferson. I Understand Your Plane Is Being Hijacked. 9:45 Am, Flight 93, September 11, 2001
Used Book