Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life Book by William Finnegan
By William FinneganWINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. Published By Orbit Books on 2016-05
Book details
- Paperback
- 512 pages
- English
- 1472151410
- 9781472151414
About William Finnegan
william finnegan is a staff writer at the new yorker. he has won several awards for his journalism and the 2016 pulitzer prize for biography or autobiograp Read More about William Finnegan
More Books By William Finnegan
People who bought this also bought
Gene Machine: The Race to Decipher the Secrets of the Ribosome book by Venki Ramakrishnan
The Jesus Mysteries: Was the "Original Jesus" a Pagan God? book by Timothy Freke
Talking Back: . . . to Presidents, Dictators, and Assorted Scoundrels book by Andrea Mitchell
S is for Samora: A Lexical Biography of Samora Machel and the Mozambican Dream book by Sarah Lefanu
This Thing Called Grief: New Understandings of Loss book by Thomas M. Ellis
Unmanned: Drones, Data, and the Illusion of Perfect Warfare book by William M. Arkin
Ivuku Rio Uvoro Mwaro [Kiembu Kimbeere Bible Brown Gold Edge Thumb]
You've Got This: Seven Steps to a Life You Love book by Michaela Dunbar
E-Myth Mastery: The Seven Essential Disciplines for Building a World-Class Company book by Michael E. Gerber
How Not To Be Wrong: The Hidden Maths of Everyday Life book by Jordan Ellenberg
International Security Studies: Theory and Practice book by Peter Hough
The Teddy bear catalog: Prices, care and repair, lore, 100s of photos
The Fourth Gospel: Tales of a Jewish Mystic book by John Shelby Spong